South America | Peru | Southern Peru – Two and a half weeks of vacation!
Jerónimo and I got on a bus to Abancay Thursday night the 18th.
We had a bumpy ride, not so much because of the road but because of the old bus. And there were people who smelled really bad. It was incredible that I didn’t get sick and throw up, I felt pretty bad, and when we finally (after 19 hours…) got to Abancay I had to just sit on a bench for a while.
We found a lovely vegetarian restaurant where we could sit out in the garden and have lunch, so we relaxed and brushed our teeth there before starting the search for information on how to get to Choquequirao and the Ca?on de Apurímac. That wasn’t too easy, people didn’t really know much. Didn’t seem like many tourists passed through Abancay.
We found an okay and cheap hostel. We lost the 5am bus to Cachora we wanted to be on the next morning. So we went back to the hostel. And thinking back that might have been just as well because I got pretty sick. I’m not sure what it was, maybe the bus ride, it can’t have been the food because we were eating the same stuff. Anyway, I had diarrhoea and it was pretty bad.
After a day and a half spent in bed we packed our stuff and got in a taxi colectivo to Curahuasi, a small town close to a nice look out point to the deepest canyon in the world.
We got to Curahuasi late evening, spoke to some locals, and started going upwards. I was doing pretty fine, a bit weak. It wasn’t that easy to find the track, we walked around the patches of corn and other stuff. Night fell same time as always. Didn’t matter that we were mid way up the mountain. So we put up the tent were we where and crossed our fingers for good luck. After all we were pretty far away from houses and people.
Early next morning we started walking again. It was cloudy when we reached the top – Capitán Rumi – but we stuck around till the clouds lifted and were amazed. Then we walked along the “top” to another look out point – Cruz de San Cristobal – before we went back down to Curahuasi. We made a short stop there, bought some food, asked for the way to Choquequirao.
And that same day we started walking towards what we thought was Choquequirao, but ended up being Cachora. Night fell and we camped in the middle of the track.
The next day we walked and walked and walked for hours and hours and hours and the backpack felt heavier and heavier and heavier. But the scenery was out of a fairy tale. And at last we got to Cachora. Just before dark.
I wasn’t doing too good and we stayed there two whole days before we started the trek to Choquequirao. It was a great hike and we only had one argument.
Back in Cachora we were lucky to get a ride to Cusco with the guys we met on the way to Choquequirao. The ride took forever. The truck was so old and it felt like it would fall apart any time. But we did get to Cusco, and we got a free night at a really nice hotel (hotel, not hostel).
From Cusco we went on a little day trip to Valle Sagrado (the sacred valley).There was a huge marked and I bought little souvenir gifts to bring back to friends and family in Norway(!)
But beside that we spent four whole days in Cusco just slouching around. It was cold and wonderful. After that first night we found (probably) the cheapest hostel. There was (little, but) hot water in the shower, and we had access to a kitchen. A single bed is perfect on cold nights.