Europe | United Kingdom (UK), Great Britain | Scotland | Highlands | Ullapool – Day 14 – Ullapool
Should mention that those showers at Scourie campsite are the best in Britain! Free, REALLY hot and surprise, surprise… water pressure!
Woke to blue sky… my first sighting of it in a week… left earliesh without waiting for the shop to open at 9 (mistake!) in the hope that I’d make the 5:15 ferry to Stornoway (not a chance!). Climbed out of Scourie with great views of the ocean and lochs dotted with small islands, heather in bloom with bright purple flowers by the road. Great scenery right along this whole stretch, jagged mountain peaks, small lochs filled with water lilies, most with white flowers. Saw an amazing trick of the light as I crossed Kylesku Bridge… on one side of me the sun was shining, the loch a bright blue, the mountains vivid shades of changing green as the clouds flickered across… the other side the water was a steely grey and the mountains a duller, deeper greeny brown… it was if I was looking in two separate landscapes.
There’s a detour off the main road here that is supposed to be even better but I’m afraid my knees wouldn’t have been able to take it… too many steep hills. On a piece of land jutting out into Loch Assynt there’s an old ruined castle that’s well worth a look if just to imagine what it would have been like to live in such a great spot. Towards the afternoon the mountains in the distance took on that deep blue colour I’m so fond of and great big dark grey clouds rolled in and rained on me for about an hour. I finally made it in to Ullapool just in time to see the ferry pull out so I pitched my tent at the site by Loch Broom… (well stocked with food and chocolate from the local supermarket!) with lovely views of the liquid gold sunset and adventurous sparrows in my tent for company.