Central America | Belize – Biking
I had Jane’s bike for most of the day. She was on a snorkel trip and needed it to be returned at 3 pm. I rode it over practically every inch of the island, including (accidentally and probably) through people’s backyards. At one point I thought I’d finally found a paved road but it was the Caye Caulker Air Strip.
No real beachfront, even at the ‘split’ but there’s beautiful blue shallows at the split and back side of the island. The three streets are Back, Middle and Front. There’s a nature preserve at the southern tip of the island. Coco Sugar Plum was recommended for breakfast but it took me most of the day to find it. It seems to be in some kind of nature sanctuary itself. Something to do with herbal remedies. There’s a lot about herbal remedies in Belize but I never did go on a proper medicine walk. Coco Sugar Plum is near a series of large well-kept houses, completely plush compared to the mostly-shingled, sometimes cement, and in a few instances, corrugated tin houses. Most houses are painted colorfully.
So, I’m riding around trying to decide where to have breakkie. I was on Middle Road not far up from our hotel, the Anchorage, when I smelled this wonderful smell coming from a small place called Moucher’s. Private house with a deck just above street level for dining. Not sure which meals they do but a lot of locals were eating there and they had the best fry jacks in all of Belize. Locals just sign up what they ate in a notebook and pay weekly or monthly.
Near our hotel on the beachfront is a graveyard. Belize has the above-ground stone crypts like in New Orleans and Martinique. This graveyard is very peaceful. At one point today I was crossing it and some asshole tourist was sitting on one of the graves drinking a beer. How fucking rude. This is why food is so damn expensive in Caye Caulker, so more people like this guy don’t come here. Belize has the ‘less is more’ attitude towards tourism, and really, who can blame them.
There’s a windsurfing place north side of the graveyard. They give lessons to beginners but their smallest sail is 4.7. Eek! So I didn’t wind up going windsurfing. Last time I went was a year ago on San Salvador and then was only rocking a 4.0 sail.
After biking 2 hours I sat on Anchorage’s beach reading. Then went for lunch. BBQ shrimp. Rode up and down the island a few more times and then had to return the bike.
Then I had an overpriced, undertimed, poorly executed oily massage. If I was at home I would’ve snarked but this is Belize, so, no worries mon.
How I spent my Thanksgiving:
Some great rum punches at Oceanside followed by a great and inexpensive dinner at Sandbox. Good food, good services. You can sit inside or right on the beach.
I didn’t go to I & I – I should’ve. Instead I went back to my room to be completely devoured by some kind of bed flea. The night before I’d noticed some bites but I’d consumed too many panty rippers to be aware of them. Tonight, however, was the feast of the beast and I was the main course.