Asia | South East Asia | Thailand | South Thailand | Krabi – That will do, Donkey, that will do
24.12.2003, Wednesday, Krabi
The Christmas decorations appeared at the Suza Hut only yesterday and today its Christmas Eve already. Stange, I havent seen it coming.
Im staying at Area 51 now, Ive got a room with an enormous bay window on the third floor, the last one. I can see downtown from here, bands practicing for the evening, restaurants playing Jingle Bells time and again.
I laugh at the guesthouses name. Its really quite an outlandish experience for me – alone at Christmas time. Last year there were only two of us and on Christmas Eve we baked stuffed chicken in a pit filled with charcoal and got drunk on Amarula Cream. The next day we took the chickens carcass to the beach in Catembe and ate it, as burnt as it was, washing it down with a flask of champagne mixed with orange juice. Then we played cricket with palm fronds and pretended to love one another. One year later, Im alone at a guesthouse in Krabi. So obviously solitary, that the family running the house invited me for dinner with them tomorrow night. Im not going to pretend I have anything better to do. I dont.
But today its up to me to fill in somehow, and as back in Poland this is the day we receive presents, Im going to give myself one – Ive found a place that has HBO and Im going to spend the evening eating chicken with cashew nuts, sipping lemon shake and watching Shrek. I know Im being pathetic, but I make pathetic look good. Ive just had a shower and put some make-up and my favourite perfume on. And what the heck, Bernard Shaw was right – Im always in a good company – I have me.
The place is not as Ive imagined. Ive heard all those rumors, about prostitutes and activities nearly bringing the ceilings down, and I cannot say there are no girls in the bars, calling after the passersby. But the town seems quiet, almost provincial in comparison to Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The most outrageous thing Id seen were the chicken corpses at the foodstalls, suspended on wire hooks and looking as if they were unbeliveably brutally disembowelled. Looking at them Im not hungry anymore. But I like it here nonetheless. People sit and eat on the streets like anywhere else in Thailand, they are just as friendly and not abnoxious at all. Abnoxious was the word Id heard applied to Krabi. Its touristy, thats all. Not even touristy enough, as Id walked all the three main streets and hadnt found a single honest pub with a big screen tv.
No chicken and beer instead of the lemon shake. Bur still food was delicious and I laughed more than usual watching Shrek. Did I mention Ive seen this movie hundreds of times by now? Still, it makes me smile and thats a thing one should during Christmas. Area 51 is decorated with huge blood-red styrofoam hearts instead of angel hair and usual trinkets, as if theyd decided to move right to Valentines. They also play Tribalistas and no carols. Im grateful for little mercies.